Norfolk Southern Office Car Special
Executive Train
Making the passenger cars
Part 3 of replicating the Norfolk Southern OCS Train
Building the Observation or Theater Car
The Buena Vista  #23 


                
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These photos are from my personal collection as I catch up with this Train.

Building "The Ohio" or scroll to the bottom
Last updated 1-25-09

 

 


The actual photos were taken mid Feb 08 in North Carolina

Car sides, Dome roofs and many other parts have been ordered to build three additional cars, the Buena Vista, Virginia, and the Carolina.

The Body:
While waiting on the car sides from Laser Horizons work begins on the Buena Vista Observation car.  The Walther's standard diner car is completely stripped, and prepped for new sides.  Leaving only the metal strips, interior light contacts, and the underbody we are ready to begin rebuilding.

To help support the frame of the stripped car you will need to build a new floor, .20 sheet styrene will do the job.  Using the original holes in the underbody drill through the new floor you can add the screws back to give the car some stability. 

After receiving the car sides, work began to get them fitted to remaining frame of the original car. While the Conrail car sides are real close to those of the NS car some modifications had to made.  Using an exacto knife and a file the four rear windows were trimmed to match up better with those of the NS car. These four rear windows on the Conrail sides came all the same size,  while the NS windows are different sizes. 

Next hold your car sides in place to mark where the frame will have to cut, other wise parts of the frame will be visible in the windows.
In some windows I've opted to leave the frame showing slightly at the top of the windows.  I will paint this white later to suggest window shades.

Once your sides are glued into place you will next snap or hold your roof piece into place while you measure the open end of theater car.
Without any plans or drawings I had to carefully study several photos of #23 car.   What I did find is that this end has been changed several times over the years. I settled in on the latest photos available. Using sheet styrene I cut out a solid end section out and worked with it before making  just the open frame.  Next you will need to measure and cut out the entire center section of the end piece to make ready for the Plexiglas. Once this piece is glued into place you can move to the roof and the other end of the car.

ROOF:
 Start by gluing one end piece to your roof.  Remember you only need one of the rounded end pieces, as the open end is finished differently.
To make the roof section with the end cap fit correctly down into the car side several modifications had to made. For starters the end caps have a support beam that runs across the width of the roof.  Notches will need to be cut out to allow the roof to sit on inside the car sides.  Also to use the original end with the door you will need to file down the top of this doorway to allow the end of the roof to fit into place. You may also have to file down the interior frame a little as well. 

Before moving to the other end of the roof, you will need to shorten the length of the roof.  Snap the roof in place to mark open section for cutting.  Using a miter saw I removed about 1/4  from this end.  Next you will trace your half moon roof end onto a piece of sheet styrene.   Cut this piece out and glue it into place closing off the end of the roof.   You are going to need some very small light sockets at this point to setup the four flood lights and the two marker lights that get mounted into the end of the roof.   .10 sheet styrene can be used to make the dual flood light mounts, as well as the small marker lights at ground level of the car floor. 

With the ends now securely in place on both the roof and car you can turn your attention back to the details of the roof.  Again without plans you are going to have to study as many photos of the roof tops as you can. 

To keep the light wires secured up in the roof 4 rectangle piece of sheet styrene were cut and slid into place above the groves along the side of the roof.  These were cut to fit snuggly thus it was not necessary to glue into place.  The wire ride along the top of these strips keeping them out of the way.

  •  
    Using Walther's Roof top AC components you can make the satellite dish, and the large rectangle vents over the diner end of the car. 
  • The small square screen sections along the side of the roof were made from left over F unit fan covers. 
  • The small vent was purchased from Bethlehem Car Works.
  • The grab irons were made from thin brass rod.  This was also used for the grab irons on the car sides.
  • Laser Horizons custom Conrail car sides were used for the Buena Vista car.   Contact info for Laser Horizons is 330-966-3186 email them at laserhriz@aol.com

Underbody: Remove all of the components mounted underneath, such as battery and tool boxes, compressors etc.  Some of these were used again after some alterations. Most of the underneath parts were ordered from Bethlehem Car Works.  Using sheet styrene I made one of the tool boxes.


Interior:
Building the theater seating is a little tricky, I ordered high back streamlined double seats from the Palace Car Company. By cutting a piece of sheet styrene to fit in the area the seats go you can begin layout the seating. The plans call for six rows of these double seats with 2 seats per row, separated by an aisle up he middle.   Using the window tops as a guide you need to build a raised floor for each. These seats gradually go up as does the flooring between the seats.

Curtains:
Using the photos that I took of the car I outlined and removed several sets of curtains using Paintshop Pro.  PSP was also used to lighten the curtains.
To size them for HO scale each set curtains was copied into MS Word.
Once the sizing was correct several sets of each different curtains were printed on white card stock

Rear Lights    The whole real light  write up by Roy Becker
The multiple lights on the rear of the car have proved more difficult than originally expected.  We mounted 4 white flood lights in the top of the roof with a red flashing light on each side of the top section.  To get these working correctly with DCC,  Roy from ACL Installations installed a small light effects decoder to control them. 

Roy assigned #23 to the decoder so that we could call the lights when we wanted to run the train or turn them off when the train was not inspecting the mainline.   I will have the exact specs shortly.
 

 







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Roof underside photo coming later




 

 

 
Curtain Example

 


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The Ohio
As you can see the Lazer Horizon car sides from Conrail's car #1and 3
match up nicely with the NS car 20, "The Ohio"  The main difference is the Ohio does not have a door on the side.  The car side is slightly shorter with the exit door coming out of the rear of the car.   The end of the car sides will have to be shortened a little to allow for the over hanging roof.

Looks like a trip to my favorite train shop (Little Choo Choo Shop) is in order. I will need to purchase a new end piece for the walk out door.
I will also be picking up a Walthers HW Sleeper Car and one Medium weight Diner Car. 

The Sleeper car was to short, thus I used an Observation car again by Walters. It just happened that I had a Penn version of this that I didn't mind hacking up.

Again first step here is to remove the car sides. As you can the passengers are reluctant to leave during the renovation.

Like the #24 this car also has the doomed roof.  Using the 11” PRR Arch Roof kit from Bethlehem Car Works. which contains an 11” straight section with  two end caps that glue on to each end to form the roof ends.
This main section had to be shortened to match the car.

Also note that a small section of styrene is cut out and fit under the end piece.  This simulates that same piece on the Ohio canopy.
Additional I had to slightly notch out the roof line on each side to allow to the roof to over hang the car body.

Before the car sides can be glued into place I had to make sure the roof fit snugly into place.  Rubber banding the car sides into place help checked the roof fit.  This also showed exactly how much had to be cut off of each car side.  Just about an eighth of an inch was removed. 

The closed end of the car needed to be trimmed and fitted with a half moon section of styrene to allow the roof to fit down over it.

Both side piece can be glued into place once the end pieces mate up good with the roof and two sides. 

The next step for this car is the layout.  Normally I would go ahead and send it to the paint shop.  However the past couple of cars have needed some work to get them to run good when placed into the passenger train.

This car needed weight and a coupler switch to even make it around a couple of times without binding or jumping track. I removed the factory coupler for a set of Kadee #156's  which help out in the corners if you do not have all wide sweeping radiuses.
 


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Primer and paint are next up for the #20 Ohio.
Unfortunately during the final coat of paint I had a brain freeze and picked up a can of paint that was near empty.  The paint came out heavy and globby if that is a word.  This caused a chemical reaction with the primer underneath and began cracking.   I knew better but I guess my mind was somewhere else.  Anyway after letting that paint dry for a couple of days I will use lacquer thinner to remove most of the paint very carefully from that side, then restart the process.  

Three  things to remember if you are new to painting.
1  Do not mix paint types.  Use enamel for both primer and topcoat.
2. Do not use the paint in the bottom of an aerosol can if your worried about the outcome.  Not always but many times it does mix well.
3. Dont waste your money on Krylon paints.  They are over priced ,and the nozzles or heads where the nozzle goes into the can clog up quicker than any other paint I've used over the years.  More to follow

Finally after redoing the side that had issues I was able to finish the priming and painting.    The walk out end was had painted using black and gold for the railings, with black on the steps.  Some of the undercarriage need touching up with black as well.  Before putting on the roof I painted the interior walls with the color sand from model masters.   Not that you can see any of the interior walls but just in case.

Again using the shell OCS Passenger car decal kit
all of the decals were applied.  The grab irons were the last detail part to be added.  


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