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 Spackling
Method: (click image to enlarge)
Regular household spackling paste will work fine
for this. Personally, I like the
“Quick drying version.”
For best results apply the spackling in layers,
for instance, starting at your lowest point (next to the cork roadbed)
work up and out. Normally it takes about 3 layers to get the road the
way that you want it leading up to the tracks. Two layers of spackling
should get you real close when working between the rails.
When working between the two rails do not worry
about getting your material on or up against the rails. After each layer
simply take your clean putty knife and run it along the inside of the
rails sideways. You can make a couple of passes using this technique at
the end of each layer. If the gap closes a little when it dries, you
can always open it back up using your putty knife.
The benefits to using spackle are:
- You have plenty of time before the material
sets
- You do not have to dry sand, you can wet sand
with a small damp sponge.
- You can get the material very close to the
tracks on either side of the rail for a very realistic look.
- Paints and landscapes nicely
- Cleans up very easy, and if used in layers
will not crack.
The downsides to using spackle are:
- It does take a little practice to become
comfortable with the putty knife
- You do have to wait between coats
- It can be messy if you get careless,
especially if you are reworking an existing crossing.
One of the biggest things when working with any
putty, spackling, or drywall compound is to keep the blade material free
before each pass over your project. Simply keep a wet paper towel handy
along with another wider blade putty knife to continually wipe the blade
off. All of these materials stick to themselves, do yourself a favor,
and keep the putty knife clean.
 Crea-stone
sculpture clay. Manufactured by: Amaco
This material comes in 3 grits, fine, medium and
course. The medium works fine for most landscape/road projects.
You add water to this product to get the desired
consistency. The more water you use the soupier your material gets.
You want to mix your material so that it will mound up nicely holding
its shape. Once you have your mixture right simply spread the material
into position with a putty knife starting with the road leading up the
outside rail. You should be able to build the road in one application.
When you have the road really close to how you want it, simply mist the
road with water using a pump spray bottle. As you mist the road it will
begin smoothing out, if need be, you can gently smooth it over with your
clean putty knife. Remember, you can always come back when it’s dry and
sand the road if need be.
When working between the two rails, do not worry
about getting your material on, or up against the rails. After each
layer simply take your clean putty knife and run it along the inside of
the rails sideways. You can make a couple of passes using this
technique at the end of each layer. You can always open up this gap with
a thicker tool.
The benefits of using Crea-stone:
- You have plenty of time before the material
sets, and you can add water to slow down the process even further.
- The material dry sands with little effort.
- Accepts paint very well.
- You can get the material very close to the
tracks on either side of the rail for a very realistic look.
The downsides to using Crea-stone:
- You do have to wait until it dries to move
forward
- There could be a small mess if you dry sand.
- It does take a little practice at first.
 Using
Northeastern Scale Lumber: with AMI roadbed (click
image to enlarge)
You can build your own wood beams up next to the
rails, and in between the rails. For this I use 1/16 width “Scribed
Sheathing Sheets”. These sheets come in 2 ft long by 3 ½ pieces. The
wood planks are 1/16 across. NC Dot specs call for 2 beams or planks on
the outside and inside of each rail. For this clinic we used 2 planks
on the outside and inside of the rails. In another example, we used
approx. 9 planks in between the rails. We added one layer up against
the plastic rail holders to keep them level. We then added a second
layer up next to the outside rails, and slightly closer to the inside
rails, so as not to bind the wheels as they pass through the crossing.
 AMI
Insta Roadbed (click image to enlarge)This
product is probably one of the quickest and cleanest ways to build a
road crossing. Like anything else, there is a little learning curve
when it comes to using this material.
Start working with the road section that leads up to the tracks first,
and then take the layered approach again. Starting with the lowest
point, cut a strip of road perhaps ¾ inch wide by 4 inches long. This
piece gets inserted up against the cork to build up that section so that
your road is not angled up too drastically. You are going to want to
cut off the ends of the ties flush with the outside of the rail before
moving on. Next cut a piece of road just slightly shorter than the
last piece except this time leave the width as it is. The reason for
cutting this piece a little shorter is because normally roads are wider
at the bottom especially at a crossing.
Position this piece right up against the outside of
the rail working it into place, then back down to the ground. If you
are using a raised roadbed this should position your material really
close to flush with the top of the rail. If the roadbed is higher than
your rail, simply push it down to exactly where you want it. Remember
this stuff sticks to itself really easily. If need be you can pull it
back up, however the lower section may come up with it.
If this happens, don’t be alarmed as this won’t ruin anything, but it
can be a pain until you get use to working with it.
To add the piece between the rails it is not
necessary to cut the ties out. If you are using code 83 tracks, and
are using the road bed on a level surface you should not need to cut the
ties. We only cut them in the first section because of the angle
leading up to the raised tracks. You will however need to thin the
material a little before fitting it between the rails. You do this by
stretching it a little every 2 inches or so. By stretching it evenly,
you will thin the road section evenly. Now simply press the newly
formed road piece between the rails. Remember to leave room for those
trucks to roll threw. One side note for this center section is to
watch your height. The first time I used this method I had an
occasional coupler hose bring the car to an abrupt stop. You can always
lift this piece back out to stretch it a little more, and then put it
back into place without replacing it totally.
The benefits of using AMI Insta Roadbed are:
- Time, you can build a crossing in under an
hour with little effort.
- Accepts most paints.
- Looks very realistic, aside from the center
section gaps near the rails.
The downsides of using AMI Insta Roadbed are:
- There will be center section gaps near the
rails due to the plastic rail anchor up against the rails.
Below are more examples of building your crossings. (click any
image to enlarge)
After creastone / sculpture clay is first applied. |
Spackle example with atlas re-railer |
Example showing how to build the wood planks even with the rails |
Example using sheet styrene only |
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MINIMUM DISTANCES BETWEEN
PARALLEL AND ADJACENT RAILROAD TRACKS
Also in accordance
with Section 339 of the Railroad Code, a distance of at lease 14 feet
(4.267
Meters) from the
center line of each railroad track must be maintained between parallel
railroad tracks
Or adjacent
sidetracks, unless authorized by written approval of M•DOT's Freight
Services and Safety
Division. One
exception to this particular requirement provides that the distance
between adjacent tracks may be diminished to the extent necessary for
construction of crossings, crossovers, turnouts, and switches. In
addition, Section 339 does not change the distance requirements between
any railroad tracks or sidetracks existing on or before January 14,
1994.
NC DOT -
Flangeway & Asphalt Road Crossing
 
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